What “natural”, “natural origin” and “nature-identical” ingredients really mean.
- By Natasha Venter
- Oct 27
- 3 min read
The word natural carries a comforting promise - safety, purity, gentleness. But in cosmetic science, the source of an ingredient says nothing about its safety or effectiveness. Arsenic is natural. So is poison ivy. And jellyfish venom - one of the most complex toxins known - is also natural.
At Upenya, we believe real skincare comes from balance: where Africa’s botanicals meet proven science, and every ingredient earns its place through evidence - not marketing.
What “natural” means
In the cosmetics industry, natural refers to ingredients obtained directly from plants, minerals, or microorganisms through physical processes such as pressing, distillation, filtration, fermentation, or drying - instead of a chemical modification.
According to ISO 16128-1:2016, natural ingredients are those derived from renewable biological or mineral sources with minimal processing [1]. Examples include Marula oil, Aloe ferox gel and Honeybush leaf extract - all featured in Upenya’s Youth Skincare range.
However, “natural” is not a legal certification. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) notes that the term alone tells consumers nothing about an ingredient’s toxicology, sustainability, or formulation safety [2].
In short: natural describes origin, not outcome.
What “natural origin” means
“Natural origin” ingredients start with something from nature but undergo controlled modification to improve purity, stability or efficacy. Under ISO 16128, these are defined as substances in which more than 50 % of the molecular weight comes from renewable natural sources [1].
Examples include:
Cocoyl glucoside – a mild, biodegradable surfactant made by combining coconut fatty acids with plant sugars.
Glycerin – derived from plant oils but refined for medical-grade purity.
These refinements make ingredients safer, more consistent, and less likely to degrade or cause irritation.
What “nature-identical” means
A nature-identical ingredient is laboratory-made but chemically identical to a molecule found in nature. It provides the same biological benefit - without the ecological cost of harvesting or the instability of raw extracts. A prime example is niacinamide (Vitamin B3). While it can occur in plants, synthesised niacinamide ensures consistent purity and potency. In clinical research, niacinamide has been shown to strengthen the skin barrier, enhance hydration, and reduce inflammation without irritation [3].
This is why responsible formulators often choose the lab-made route: it’s safer for both your skin and the environment.
Why “natural” isn’t always better
Nature can be dangerous
Poison ivy, scorpion venom and jellyfish stings all come straight from nature — and all can cause real harm. Just because something grows or exists naturally doesn’t make it gentle or safe. What comes from nature can be powerful, but it can also be toxic.
Whether an ingredient comes from a plant or a lab, it still has to be tested to make sure it’s safe for skin. What really matters is how pure it is, how much is used, and how it behaves on the skin - not where it started. Several studies warn that “clean beauty” marketing can be misleading, because it often suggests that anything natural is automatically safe [4]. It’s not.
Sustainability through science
Taking large amounts of plants from the environment can harm ecosystems and add to carbon emissions. Making nature-identical ingredients in a lab can ease that pressure and still give the same results for your skin.
The Upenya standard
Upenya merges Africa’s botanical intelligence with global cosmetic science:
Clinically tested in Europe under ISO and COLIPA guidelines.
Community benefit sourcing for Marula, Aloe ferox, and Honeybush ingredients.
Nature-identical actives incorporated where they improve performance or sustainability.
We don’t claim to be “100 % natural.” We claim to be 100 % honest - because safe, effective skincare depends on chemistry that works.
Final thought
Everything - your skin, water, that juicy apple you’re eating - is made up of chemical compounds. When it comes to ingredients to be used on your skin, what matters is not whether it’s natural, but how it’s made, tested, and proven to perform.
At Upenya, we choose ingredients backed by evidence, not hype.
References
1. International Organization for Standardization (2016). ISO 16128-1: Guidelines on Definitions for Natural and Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products. Geneva: ISO. https://www.iso.org/standard/62503.html
2. Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA). Natural Ingredients and Safety. London: CTPA. https://www.ctpa.org.uk/natural-ingredients
3. Sjöberg T., Fšahaye A., Nilsson E.J. et al. (2025). Niacinamide and its impact on stratum corneum hydration and structure. Scientific Reports, 15: 4953. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-025-88899-0
4. Rubin C.B. & Brod B. (2019). Natural does not mean safe - the dirt on clean beauty. JAMA Dermatology, 155 (12), 1321-1322. https://doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2019.2724
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