Can teens use AHA and BHA together?

Photo by @simoneschoemanprinsloo

If skin looks a bit dull or feels uneven, gentle chemical exfoliation can be a significant help. Two groups of fruit acids do most of the heavy lifting: AHAs (like lactic and malic acid) and BHA (salicylic acid). In the right formulas, they lift away built-up surface cells, help unclog pores and refine texture, without the abrasiveness of scrubs [1–4].

What they are (in plain English)

• AHAs (lactic & malic acids) are water-soluble acids that loosen dead surface cells to reveal newer skin cells below. Lactic acid is well-studied for gentle exfoliation while malic acid, another AHA, is popular for its mild, skin-friendly action [3,4].

• BHA (salicylic acid) is an oil-soluble acid, ideal for unclogging oily pores. It helps reduce visible blackheads and general congestion and is a staple in blemish care [2].

  
  

What the research says

• Clinical reviews of superficial acid use for acne find comparable improvements across common acids with good tolerance (exact regimens varied across studies) [1].

• Salicylic acid has a long history for reducing the appearance of blackheads and visible pore build-up, while being suitable for everyday use in balanced formulations [2].

• AHAs (including lactic and malic acids) contribute to smoother skin texture; activity depends on concentration and pH, so balanced formulations are crucial for teenage skin [3,4].

• Rinse-off formats like Upenya’s Exfoliating Cleanser keeps it gentle and comfortable and are ideal in twice-daily routines – especially useful for kids starting out with a skincare routine [5].

• Hydroxy acids can make skin more sun-sensitive, therefor applying a broad-spectrum SPF every morning, and reapplying throughout the day, is important [6].

Upenya’s simple 3-step routine

AM: Upenya Exfoliating Cleanser (lactic + malic acids) → Upenya Moisturising Gel → Upenya Blemish Care (salicylic acid) on problem areas → your favourite SPF 30 [5,6].

PM: Upenya Exfoliating Cleanser (lactic + malic acids) → Upenya Blemish Care (salicylic acid) on problem areas → Upenya Moisturising Gel [2].

Three simple steps designed to be gentle enough for twice-daily use, helping skin look clearer and feel balanced.

Sensible care notes

• Skip harsh scrubs and over-cleansing; consistency beats intensity.

• If irritation persists or acne is severe, speak to a dermatologist.

Want to see our data? Check the one-page summaries and videos with Dr Mathilda Mostert in the Science Hub.

References

1. Chen, X., et al. (2018). Chemical peels for acne vulgaris: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials. BMJ Open, 8:e019607. https://doi.org/10.1136/bmjopen-2017-019607

2. Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765

3. Tang, S-C. & Yang, J-H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23040863

4. Karwal, K., et al. (2023). Topical alpha-hydroxy acids in dermatology: formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics, 10(5), 131. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050131

5. Okuda, M., et al. (2011). Negligible penetration of incidental amounts of alpha-hydroxy acids from rinse-off products (in vitro). Toxicology in Vitro, 25(8), 1753–1758. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tiv.2011.08.005

6. Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S.G. & Hearing, V.J. (2009). Effects of topically applied glycolic and salicylic acid on UV-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cells in human skin. J Dermatol Sci., 55(1) 10–17 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2009.03.011