The Healing Power of African Botanicals: Nature's Gift to Skincare

Marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea)

In his engaging book, Bushveld Trees – Lifeblood of the Transvaal Lowveld (Fernwood Press, 1993), Malcolm Funston calls the Marula (Sclerocarya birrea) the “medicine tree of the Lowveld.” For the Venda people, the Marula tree is far more than a source of shade; it’s a cherished remedy for ailments like dysentery and diarrhoea. This tree is woven into their culture and traditions [1].

The Role of Plants in Traditional Healing

Plants have always been at the heart of South African traditional healing. If you are curious to learn more, People’s Plants by Ben-Erik van Wyk and Nigel Gericke (Briza Publications, 2nd Ed. 2022) is an excellent resource. It highlights the history of Aloe ferox, also called Cape Aloe or bitter aloe. This plant is noted for its presence in San rock art and accounts from early European travellers who witnessed the Khoi’s healing practices.

Honeybush tea, made from the leaves of Cyclopia intermedia, is another local favourite. This caffeine-free brew is rich in phenolic compounds and flavour. From the Khoisan of Namibia’s northwest to the Xhosa communities of the Eastern Cape, generations have trusted Marula oil, Aloe ferox, and Honeybush for their restorative powers.

Today, clinical research affirms what our elders have long known: these plants are rich in ingredients with healing, nourishing, and beautifying properties. This wisdom is well worth revisiting and respecting.

Marula Oil: A Skincare Marvel

Studied Benefits

• Non-irritating and safe for sensitive skin.

• Significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), strengthening the skin barrier.

• Deeply hydrates thanks to prominent levels of oleic (~69%), palmitic, and linoleic acids.

  
  

Why It Works

Marula oil's fatty acid profile closely mimics skin lipids. This allows it to absorb easily and replenish barrier function.

Aloe Ferox: Nature's Soothing Agent

Studied Benefits

• Helps reduce redness: In a small human study, Aloe ferox gel eased induced redness over six days. The results were comparable to 1% hydrocortisone gel [4].

• Naturally rich in helpful plant compounds: The leaves contain flavonoids, phenolics, saponins, terpenoids, and more. These compounds are known for their soothing and antioxidant effects [5].

  
  

Why It Works

The bioactive compounds found in Aloe ferox can help calm inflammation, protect skin cells, and support recovery from irritation.

Honeybush: The Antioxidant Powerhouse

Studied Benefits

• Rich in polyphenols that protect against oxidative stress [6].

• In a 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, fermented honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia) extract significantly improved skin wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration. It also reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [7].

  
  

Why It Works

Antioxidants neutralise free radicals originating from UV, pollution, and stress. Polyphenols play a role in reducing oxidative damage and inflammation, helping skin stay healthier and appear more youthful.

Bridging Heritage and Modern Skincare

These three South African botanicals bridge the gap between heritage and modern skincare. Curious how these botanicals fit into gentle, effective teen skincare? Visit our Science Hub or browse Skin Stories for more research-driven skincare insights.

Conclusion

The Marula tree and its associated botanicals offer a wealth of benefits for skincare. Their historical significance and modern scientific validation make them invaluable in today's beauty industry. Embracing these natural remedies can lead to healthier skin and a deeper appreciation for our cultural heritage.

References

1. Funston, M (1993). Bushveld Trees - Lifeblood of the Transvaal Lowveld. Vlaeberg: Fernwood Press.

2. Van Wyk B-E & Gericke, N (2022). People’s Plants - A guide to useful plants in southern Africa. 2nd Ed. Pretoria: Briza Publications.

3. Komane, B., Vermaak, I., Summers, B., & Viljoen, A. M. (2015). Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 176, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874115301963.

4. Fox LT, du Plessis J, Gerber M, van Zyl S, Boneschans B, Hamman JH. (2014). In Vivo skin hydration and anti-erythema effects of Aloe vera, Aloe ferox and Aloe marlothii gel materials after single and multiple applications. Pharmacogn Mag. 2, S392-403 https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4078333/.

5. Nalimu, F., Oloro, J., Kahwa, I. & Ogwang, P.E., 2021. Review on the phytochemistry and toxicological profiles of Aloe vera and Aloe ferox. Future Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 7, 145. https://doi.org/10.1186/s43094-021-00296-2.

6. De Nysschen A.M., Van Wyk, B-E., Van Heerden, F.R. & Schutte, A.L. (1996). The major phenolic compounds in the leaves of Cyclopia species (honeybush tea). Biochemical Systematics and Ecology. 24(3) 243-246. https://doi.org/10.1016/0305-1978(95)00100-X00100-X).

7. Kim, H. K., Lee, Y. S., Choi, Y. H., et al. (2018). Effects of fermented honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia) extract on skin wrinkles, elasticity and hydration: A 12-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 18(1), 83. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764172.2017.1418512.