What’s living on your skin? How to improve the skin microbiome.

Photo by @simoneschoemanprinsloo

Microbiome what?

The skin is home to a variety of helpful microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, and viruses - collectively known as the skin microbiome. These tiny inhabitants support healthy skin in many ways. They help balance oil production, guard against harmful germs, and support the immune system to differentiate between friend and foe [1, 2]. Each individual's skin microbiome is unique - like a microbial fingerprint.

Why the skin's microbiome matters

Historically, skincare focussed on getting rid of oil, dirt, and bacteria. Modern day research shows that not all bacteria are detrimental, in fact many are important for keeping our skin healthy [1]. Harsh cleansers or aggressive exfoliants can upset this balance by removing helpful microbes and weakening your skin’s natural barrier [3]. The skin's microbiome has become an area of increasing focus in modern skincare design. By supporting the good bacteria that naturally live on your skin, you can help your skin to stay calm, less irritated, and more resilient over time.

Acne and the microbiome

Acne is a condition with multiple contributing factors and not merely the result of excess oil or poor hygiene. The bacterium Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), formerly known as Propionibacterium acnes is commonly found on healthy skin, where it assists in breaking down sebum. Certain strains of C. acnes, however, are associated with inflammation and blemishes [4]. It is crucial to keep your skin balanced by reducing pro-inflammatory strains while preserving protective ones [5]. This emerging approach favours microbiome-preserving treatments that aim to restore equilibrium rather than eliminate bacteria entirely.

Prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics in skincare

These terms are commonly seen on skincare labels, but what do they mean? 

-Prebiotics are ingredients that nourish existing beneficial bacteria on the skin. Examples include inulin and Aloe Ferox Leaf Extract, which can help improve microbial diversity and barrier function [6].

-Probiotics are live microorganisms that has the potential to promote skin health, but it is challenging for the cosmetic industry to create topical formulas that retain probiotic bacterial viability [7].

-Postbiotics are non-living by-products of microbes, such as peptides or cell wall fragments, which have anti-inflammatory or barrier-repair benefits [8].

These bioactive agents can play an important role in supporting a healthier, more resilient skin environment.

How to support your skin microbiome

You don’t need highly specialised products to care for your microbiome. Evidence-based care include:

1. Resist the urge to over-cleanse your face. Frequent or harsh cleansing can remove beneficial microbes and compromise the skin's lipid barrier [3].

2. Avoid alcohol-based products and physical exfoliants where possible. These can damage the skin’s protective acid mantle, making it harder for communities of good microbes to thrive [3].

3. Choose products that support the microbiome. Ingredients to look out for include inulin, Aloe Ferox leaf extract, or fermented extracts. Upenya's Exfoliating Cleanser and Upenya Moisturising Gel contain inulin and Aloe Ferox Leaf Extract, which act as prebiotics that help nourish beneficial skin microbes while gently removing impurities [6].

4. Prioritise overall health: adequate sleep, a varied diet rich in whole grains, fruits, and vegetables all support the gut-skin axis, which in turn influences your skin microbiome [9].

Your skin is a living ecosystem; by supporting the microbiome balance, inflammation can be reduced and barrier function improved, which may help keep acne at bay. Supporting this delicate balance through thoughtful skincare and lifestyle choices is grounded in published evidence and can help promote long-term skin health

References

1. Byrd, A.L., Belkaid, Y. & Segre, J.A. (2018). The human skin microbiome. Nature Reviews Microbiology, 16(3), pp. 143–155. https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157

2. Belkaid, Y. & Segre, J.A. (2014). Dialogue between skin microbiota and immunity. Science, 346(6212), pp. 954–959. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1260144

3. Sanford, J.A. & Gallo, R.L. (2013). Functions of the skin microbiota in health and disease. Seminars in Immunology, 25(5), pp. 370–377. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.smim.2013.09.005

4. Fitz-Gibbon, S. et al. (2013). Propionibacterium acnes strain populations in the human skin microbiome associated with acne. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(9), pp. 2152–2160. https://doi.org/10.1038/jid.2013.21

5. Barnard, E. et al. (2016). The balance of metagenomic elements shapes the skin microbiome in acne and health. Scientific Reports, 6, Article 39491. https://doi.org/10.1038/srep39491

6. Zeng, M. et al., 2025. Prebiotic oligosaccharides in skin health: benefits, mechanisms, and cosmetic applications. Antioxidants, 14(6), 754. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox14060754.

7.Puebla-Barragan, S. and Reid, G., 2021. Probiotics in cosmetic and personal care products: Trends and challenges. Molecules, 26(5), p.1249. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26051249

8. Salminen, S., Collado, M.C., Endo, A. et al. The International Scientific Association of Probiotics and Prebiotics (ISAPP) consensus statement on the definition and scope of postbiotics. Nat Rev Gastroenterol Hepatol 18, 649–667 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41575-021-00440-6

9. Salem, I. et al. (2018). The gut microbiome as a major regulator of the gut–skin axis. Frontiers in Microbiology, 9, Article 1459. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2018.01459