Why won’t my acne clear? What the science really says.

Photo by @simoneschoemanprinsloo

(Advice from one parent to another, and to the teens caught in the middle)

If you or your teenager are dealing with acne, you’ll know it isn’t just about spots on the skin. "Bad skin" can chip away at confidence, especially when it feels like nothing is working. As a parent, I’ve been down the rabbit hole of products, promises, and “miracle cures,” and I know how frustrating it is when your child’s skin doesn’t clear the way the adverts suggest it should.

Science tells us acne is complicated. You might be cleansing your face diligently and still wonder:"why won't my acne clear"? It isn’t just about washing your face more, or about “bad skin.” Hormones, oil (sebum) production, the skin’s barrier, and even the bacteria that naturally live on our skin all play a role. That’s why for some teens, acne feels stubborn, and it’s not because they’re doing anything wrong.

What the science says

Large clinical studies and reviews show:

1. Acne is driven by multiple factors. Hormones can push oil glands into overdrive. That extra oil, mixed with dead skin, can block pores [1].

2. Bacteria (like Cutibacterium acnes) join the party. These microbes can trigger inflammation, turning small bumps into painful spots [2].

3. The skin barrier often suffers. Harsh cleansers or treatments strip the skin, leaving the skin dry, cracked, and more reactive [3].

4. Healing takes time. Even with the right routine, research shows it can take weeks or months, not days [4].

   
   

A gentle, consistent routine for persistent acne

The best evidence points to keeping things simple and steady. A good basic routine might look like this:

• Gentle cleanser: pH-balanced so it doesn’t strip the skin.

• Moisturiser: yes, even for oily skin. Look for lightweight, microbiome-friendly ingredients like prebiotic aloe.

• Targeted support: niacinamide helps regulate oil [5], strengthens the skin barrier [6], and even slows down pigment transfer to fade marks [7], [8]. A gentle AHA a few times a week can keep pores clear [9].

• Sunscreen: protects healing skin and prevents dark marks from getting darker.

Consistency is key, chopping and changing products every week usually makes things worse.

Why won't my acne clear - a note to parents (and teens)

Acne doesn’t mean your child's skin is “dirty” or they're being careless. It’s biology, not bad habits that can cause acne to act like a run-away train. What helps most is patience, gentle care, and support. The science is there, but so is the emotional side, reminding our teens they are more than their skin.

If breakouts are severe or painful, don’t hesitate to see a dermatologist. Sometimes prescription help is needed, and that’s not a failure, it’s a helpful tool with early intervention proven to reduce permanent scarring.

Where Upenya fits in

For families who want a simple, microbiome-friendly option, Upenya’s 3-step routine was designed with exactly this science in mind:

1. Exfoliating Cleanser: a gentle, pH-balanced wash that supports rather than strips the skin.

2. Hydrating Gel Moisturiser: light enough for oily skin, with aloe and niacinamide to calm, hydrate, and support the microbiome.

3. Blemish Care: with gentle actives like salicylic acid and panthenol to keep pores clear and help fade marks.

   
   

There is no “fast, miracle cure" to persistent acne. Instead of blaming yourself and asking repetitively; "why won't my ace clear?", rather develop healthy habits and routines, with consistency and products that respect the skin barrier and give it the best chance to heal.

References

1. Bhate, K., & Williams, H. C. (2013). Epidemiology of acne vulgaris. British Journal of Dermatology, 168(3), 474–485. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.12149

2. O’Neill, A. M., & Gallo, R. L. (2018). Host–microbiome interactions and recent progress into understanding the biology of acne vulgaris. Microbiome, 6(1), 177. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40168-018-0558-5

3. Dreno, B., et al. (2018). Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32(12), 2036–2042. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15043

4. Tan, J. K. L., & Bhate, K. (2015). A global perspective on the epidemiology of acne. British Journal of Dermatology, 172(S1), 3–12. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.13462

5. Draelos, Z. D., et al. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704

6. Tanno, O., et al. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x

7. Hakozaki, T., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x

8. Navarrete-Solís, J., et al. (2011). A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. International Journal of Dermatology, 50(12), 164–170. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3142702/

9. Tanghetti, E. A. (2013). The role of inflammation in the pathology of acne. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(9), 27–35. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3780801/