A science-backed skincare routine for acne-prone skin

Photo by @simoneschoemanprinsloo

Hi!

Welcome to our very first Upenya blog - a space created for South African teens and parents to discover honest information and advice to guide you through the murky waters of skincare, adolescence and the occasional outbreak. At Upenya we believe in skincare for every shade, shape, and story. Confidence starts with understanding your own skin, and every teen deserves to shine with confidence. Whether your have melanin-rich, overly sensitive or acne-prone skin, it deserves thoughtful, specialised care.

At Upenya, we formulate our products with the full spectrum of teen skin in mind. We celebrate the diversity that makes South African teens unique. We use marula oil, prebiotic aloe, and other botanically derived actives with documented skin benefits, to make products that are authentic to South Africa, its diversity and rich botanical heritage. Our Youth Range is designed to support the skin barrier, gently exfoliate with the powerful action of AHA & BHA’s, moisturise with nourishing Marula Oil and Jojoba esters and support your skin’s microbiome with prebiotic Aloe and inulin for effective, gentle skincare.

Here’s how our key ingredient supports your skin:

Key active ingredients and what they do

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): With proven efficacy in acne treatment and sebum reduction, Niacinamide is an effective aid in acne treatment and sebum reduction, one of the main causes of breakouts. Niacinamide targets cutaneous hyperpigmentation, promotes collagen and elastin production, and also reduces cutaneous oxidative stress and inflammation, with the potential to calm redness, even out skin tone, and enhance the skin barrier by increasing ceramide production [1].

Lactic Acid (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid): A gentle exfoliant suitable for everyday use, Lactic Acid assists in removing dead skin cells, boosts hydration, and supports collagen renewal. It is well tolerated by sensitive skin types and helps improve texture and tone [2][3].

Salicylic Acid (Beta-Hydroxy Acid): Salicylic acid penetrates pores to clear excess sebum and help prevent breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory effects, making it useful for long-term acne care [4].

Tocopherol (Vitamin E): Vitamin E is a strong antioxidant that protects your skin from environmental stress. It supports healing and helps skin retain moisture, thereby supporting the skin barrier [5].

Marula Oil: Marula oil is naturally rich in oleic acid and antioxidants and aids in softening and hydrating the skin without clogging pores [6].

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters: Jojoba Esters is derived from the seed oil of of the desert shrub, Simmondsia chinensis, known as the jojoba plant. Through a process known as hydrolysis, the oil particles are broken down through the addition of water. Jojoba esters mimic oils found naturally in the skin and assists in improving the skin’s elasticity and reduce moisture loss, leaving your skin feeling smooth and hydrated [7].

Aloe Ferox Leaf Extract: Native to Southern Africa, the Cape aloe or bitter aloe, is known for its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. It helps soothe irritation and supports healthy skin bacteria [8].

Inulin (Prebiotic): Inulin is a soluble, dietary fibre that acts as a prebiotic (food source) that feeds the skin’s beneficial bacteria, thereby helping to balance the microbiome and strengthen the skin barrier [9].

Why we choose these ingredients

At Upenya we select ingredients for safety, skin compatibility, and scientifically documented benefits, known to aid teenage skin. Our aim is to support the skin's own renewal process and balance your microbiome without relying on harsh or irritating ingredients.

Let's explore the basics of proper skin care: gentle cleansing, hydration, protective care and sun protection.

The basics of a healthy skincare routine for acne-prone skin

To care for your skin properly, focus on four simple steps:

1. Cleanse – Use a gentle exfoliating cleanser like Upenya Exfoliating Cleanser (shop here) once or twice a day to remove oil, sweat, and dead skin cells

2. Hydrate – Choose a lightweight moisturiser like Upenya Moisturising Gel (shop here) that supports your skin barrier and maintains a healthy skin microbiome.

3. Targeted action – Apply a formulation like Upenya Blemish Care (shop here) containing well-researched active ingredients, specifically designed to target clogged pores, reduce redness and support and maintain the skin barrier in problem-prone areas.

4. Sun Protection – Apply a lightweight, non-comedogenic SPF30+ sunscreen every morning and reapply throughout the day. Ensure to apply it all over your face, next and exposed areas.

Our mission

Upenya is here to empower you with reliable knowledge and products you can trust. We believe every teen, regardless of skin tone, texture, or sensitivity, deserves to feel seen, supported, and celebrated. We hope our products and tips will guide and benefit you to feel more confident in your own skin.

References

1. Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, Lourenço K, Scaletta C, Abdel-Sayed P, Hirt-Burri N, Applegate LA, Laurent A. 2024. Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants, 13(4):425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425

2. Karwal, K., & Mukovozov, I. (2023). Topical alpha-hydroxy acids in dermatology: mechanisms and efficacy. Cosmetics, 10(5), 131. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050131

3. Feng, X., Shang, J., Gu, Z., Luo, X., Chen, Y., & Liu, Y. (2024). Lactic acid chemical peeling in skin disorders: a clinical update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 17, 901–909. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S455700

4. Kim, H.-J., Song, K.-H., & Kwon, I.-H. (2024). Exploring Acne Treatments: From Pathophysiological Basis to Therapeutic Strategies. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 25(10), 5302. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms25105302

5. Keen, M. A., & Hassan, I. (2016). Vitamin E: A Review of Its Role in Dermatology. Dermatology and Therapy, 6(2), 265–286. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu13010203

6. Komane, B., Vermaak, I., Summers, B., & Viljoen, A. (2015). Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 176, 327–335. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2015.10.037

7. Meyer, J., Marshall, B., Gacula, M. Jr., & Rheins, L. (2008). Evaluation of additive effects of hydrolyzed jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) esters and glycerol: a preliminary study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 7(4), 268–274. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00405.x

8. Jia, Y., Zhao, G., & Jia, J. (2008). Preliminary evaluation: the effects of Aloe ferox Miller and Aloe arborescens Miller on wound healing. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 120(2), 181–189. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2008.08.008

9. Halagali, P., Tippavajhala, V.K., Rathnanand, M., Sharma, H., Pathak, R. (2025). Inulin as a Natural Ingredient in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products. In: Akram, W., Mishra, N., Haider, T. (eds) Inulin for Pharmaceutical Applications. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-97-9056-2_7