“Skin Purging”: Why skin sometimes acts out when you start a new routine

Photo by: @simoneschoemanprinsloo

When your skin flares before it calms

Starting a new skincare routine can sometimes make skin appear worse before it improves. This short-lived phase is often described as “skin purging” – a consumer term for temporary flare-ups that occur when introducing active ingredients such as AHAs, BHAs or niacinamide.

Dermatologists, however, usually refer to this as a transient acneiform eruption or an initial treatment flare [1][2]. It reflects the skin’s adjustment to changes in exfoliation rate, microbiome balance and barrier repair, not a product that is “too harsh” or “drawing out toxins”.

At Upenya, we occasionally see this adjustment phase in new users. Understanding the science behind it helps you stay consistent and patient while your skin resets.

What happens beneath the surface

1. Increased cell turnover

Gentle exfoliating acids like lactic acid and salicylic acid encourage older cells to shed and make way for fresher ones. This can bring pre-existing congestion to the surface more quickly – a normal part of renewal. Dermatologists recognise this as an early, temporary flare during skin renewal [1].

2. Microbiome and pH adjustment

Your skin’s microbiome – its community of beneficial microorganisms – depends on a stable, slightly acidic environment. When you introduce new formulas, the microbiome may rebalance in response to the changed lipid and pH profile. Research shows that this shift typically stabilises within one to two skin cycles [3].

3. Barrier renewal

When the barrier has been weakened by harsh cleansers or inconsistent routines, Upenya’s pH-balanced, prebiotic ingredients (such as Aloe ferox & inulin) help restore lipid integrity. As the barrier rebuilds, mild flaking or congestion can occur before the skin fully stabilises [4].

Recognising an adjustment phase vs a true breakout

Mild congestion, roughness or flaking in your usual problem areas during the first 2–4 weeks is typically a sign of skin renewal. If inflammation spreads, painful cysts form, or irritation persists beyond six weeks, the product may not be suitable for your skin’s current state. This is uncommon with Upenya’s formulations, which are designed to balance rather than strip, but sensitivity can vary between individuals.

How to support your skin during the transition

1. Stay consistent. Use only your Upenya 3-step routine – Exfoliating Cleanser, Moisturising Gel and Blemish Care.

2. Hydrate generously. Adequate hydration supports natural exfoliation and strengthens the barrier [5].

3. Avoid over-exfoliating. Resist the urge to add scrubs, masks or peels during the first month.

4. Use daily sun protection. AHAs and BHAs can increase UV sensitivity; consistent SPF prevents post-inflammatory pigmentation [6].

5. Allow one skin cycle. Most adjustment responses calm within four to six weeks. If irritation persists, pause use and consult a professional.

   
   

The Upenya approach

Upenya products are formulated for sensitive, acne-prone and adolescent skin. Each product is pH-balanced (4.7 – 6.5) and enriched with plant-derived actives that encourage renewal without stripping or disrupting the microbiome.

A brief flare does not mean your skin is “rejecting” your routine – it often means the skin is recalibrating to a healthier rhythm. Be patient and consistent; balanced, calm skin follows steady care.

References

1. Thiboutot, D. et al. (2018). Pathophysiology, treatment, and future directions for acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), S1–S17.

2. Dreno, B. et al. (2019). Understanding acne flares in topical therapy. Dermatology and Therapy, 9(2), 233–247.

3. Sanford, J.A. & Gallo, R.L. (2020). Functions of the skin microbiota in health and disease. Nature Reviews Microbiology, 18(11), 643–655.

4. Loden, M. & Maibach, H.I. (2016). The skin barrier: structure, function, and recovery. Contact Dermatitis, 75(1), 1–7.

5. Rawlings, A.V. & Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Clinical Dermatology, 22(4–5), 323–329.

6. Kozminsky, M. et al. (2019). UV-induced skin responses after application of AHA and BHA: a controlled clinical assessment. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 35(4), 220–228.